Raw Materials in perfumery industry: Innovate to get to the consumer

By Vanessa Millàs On Thursday, April 05 th, 2018 · no Comments · In

From Dauper we have the chance to collaborate with Beautyproof magazine to talk about the innovation in our professional area.
In this interview we have talked about perfumery trends, consumer behavior and latest Dauper developments.

Hereafter, we will show you full interview without first mentioning key interview points:

Latest trends:

  • Trend towards individualization and customization.
  • Growing consumer interest about perfumer and it composition.
  • To look for scents that create an emotional bond.
  • Feminine and masculine fragrances line is diluted.
  • Layering. Superposition of fragrances on the skin.
  • Floral notes booming followed by the combination of woody, citrus and gourmand use.
  • Greater research on new ways to obtain freshness in detergency and personal care.
  • Transparency and sustainability in manufacturing processes.
  • Encapsulate the smell of the experience of a moment and not simulate a specific product.

BeautyProf full report pages 22-27

Hereafter we want to share with you the full interview made by Beatriz Suarez from BeautyProf magazine to Mr Jesús Ferrao Alonso, Dauper’s CEO and Vanessa Millàs from Marketing Department. ¡We hope you like it!

Which are the tendencies in the raw materials for fine fragrances?                                                                                                                                                We are evolving towards a very individualized and personalized conception of perfumery. The final consumer changes his attitude quickly and the commitment of industries like ours is to adapt quickly to this demanding rhythm and anticipate the marked trends. The floral notes are booming, we are living the reinvention of the bouquet. White flowers such as orange blossom, jasmine, tuberose and nard will be present in many of the upcoming compositions. The use of ouds in the western perfumery will also go in crescendo. Materials such as Shamama or Jatamansi that we currently find mainly in oriental perfumes will be used more frequently in Western perfumery; a fusing between East and West is expected.

What about cosmetics?
We are experiencing a great change in cosmetics tendencies. In the last years we have witness a transition from green to blue, from terrestrial and organic to emotional and mental. The crisis of the natural products as well as the climate change, lead to a new model of cosmetics. More and more products with a solid base will be created to restrict the amount of water and this reduction should be balanced by applying oceanic fragrances. We will find products that simulate the smell of salt, seaweed, moss, sand … marine fragrances with refreshing properties. In Dauper we have conceived this decade as the search for the natural against nature. The final consumer is looking for natural ingredients in their beauty treatments due to the belief that the natural cannot harm; but it must be taken into consideration that the 100% natural products contain lots of allergens and can be more aggressive for our skin. Here it comes the contradiction.
In order to solve this paradox, we have created natural fragrances, but we have modified them in order to eliminate the allergens.

How does the consumer`s wellbeing influence the raw material cosmetics and perfumery industry?
Our consumer is increasingly being aware about the importance of a healthy lifestyle and an unpolluted environment. As he lives in an urbanized habitat he needs a fragrance able to remind him about the nature. The green and marine fragrances with clean and fresh notes will remind him about nature. The herbal and oceanic scents mixed with masculine notes will raise his moral and increase the self-esteem.

Please, define Dauper`s challenge in the tendency to personalization.
The constant connectivity, the access to information, the “now and here” requirements and the possibility to viralize experiences, designate our client as a leader in the industry. The final consumer becomes the bandmaster and he marks the timmings. Our duty is to come ahead of time, foreseeing his needs.
Regarding the technical challenge of customizing and adapting to the client’s needs, we do not consider it as a challenge but as something inherent in our DNA. Dauper is a company founded and run by perfumers; 30 years of creation, evolution and personalization avails us. Apart from the Emo Scent one of our pillars in R & D creation and development of new products is our Custom Designed division.

Please indicate us, the last novelties of your company and the contribution to the industry.             

In 2017 we experienced a turnover growth up to 40%. It was a prolific year with 58 new creations and 390 customizations OEM, including traditional oriental fragrances as “Live oud” , a new collection of 14 bakhoors as well as experimental essences as “ molecular compound VMGM”. Our contribution to the sector was the use of oriental raw materials uncommon in Europe, as Jatamasi, Shisho, Shamama or Agarwood, and of course the big advance in the neuromarketing field and the smart fragrances because of our Emo Scent division.

In this context, to which direction / area is focused your R+D division?
Our R + D efforts will be focused both in developing new products and in exploring the future behavior of consumers in order to anticipate trends. Our Emo Scent division will be a key point in our business strategy.

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